In the many late-night hours I’ve spent watching kitten videos reading about skin care on my phone, a topic that has repeatedly come up over and over again is glycolic acid.
Actually, acids in general. In the skin care world, they’re a big deal, especially when it comes to anti-aging products.
There’s a ton of info available about them online, but this is basically what I’ve gathered: skin goes through a cycle of shedding and renewal, where it sheds old cells and generates new ones, and, as we get older, the cycle slows down. But glycolics kick the cycle into higher gear again, which improves skin tone and mellows out pigmentation, among other things.
In a nutshell, glycolics are today’s anti-aging all-stars, and if I’ve learned anything from skin care goddess Caroline Hirons (a.k.a. my BFF in my mind), it’s that you gotta get an acid up in the mix if you want to get “serious” about anti-aging.
A couple of the skin care peeps I follow, Caroline and Stephanie Nicole, recommend a potent glycolic acid toner called Biologique Recherche P50 1970 Toner, which I want to try eventually, but it’s supposed to be super strong, so I started with a few over-the-counter products first from Pixi.
You know Pixi. They’re a cruelty-free, paraben-free line available at Target, and all of their stuff comes in the cutest green bottles. I love how it all matches. 🙂
Anywho, they have a bunch of glycolic acid products and good-looking ingredient lists. The glycolic acids are usually listed up near the top along with the percentage included, which isn’t something that all brands do (and that’s frustrating!). Pixi also often adds soothing aloe vera (also up near the top of the ingredient list) to help offset the exfoliating power of glycolic acid.
Pixi Glow Tonic To-Go Exfoliating Toner Pads with 5% Glycolic ($18 for 60 pads)
Pixi soaked these travel-friendly pads with their famous Glow Toner, which I’ve used before and like. I think it makes a big difference in the texture and evenness of my skin. It makes it smoother.
I have these slightly darker spots, which I like to call my “freckles,” but let’s get real here. They’re more likely sun spots from sun damage. I also have larger patches on my cheeks that are slightly darker than my normal skin tone, but not as dark as those freckles (also likely from sun damage). Glow Tonic ever-so-slightly evens out the tone of those larger areas of uneven pigmentation.
Does it completely even out my skin? Nah, but I’m still going to keep using it, because quite a few people, including Caroline Hirons, recommend using different products with different amounts of glycolic acid in them — a strong one, a moderately strong one, and a gentle one.
Caroline equates the three levels to weightlifting, whereas some days you lift heavy, other days you lift light, etc.
This toner will probably be my gentle one, I think, but if you’re a teen or in your 20s, you could probably use it as your strong one.
Glow Mud Cleanser with 5% Glycolic Acid & Aloe Vera ($18 for a 4.57-oz. tube)
I usually opt for gentle, creamy cleansers and thought this would be too harsh for my combo skin, but I really like it and plan to keep it in stock.
It’s a non-foaming, purifying cleanser that starts as a non-gritty paste but turns milky as you massage it in. I feel a slightly tingling sensation when I work it in, too, which is weirdly satisfying (don’t worry, it doesn’t hurt).
Thing is, my skin feels REALLY clean after I use this, like it’s kicking all of those naughty dead skin cells to the curb. I think of this as a gentler (and much more affordable) version of Kate Somerville’s famous $85 ExfoliKate.
Overnight Glow Serum with 10% Glycolic Acid & Aloe Vera ($24 for a 1.01-oz. bottle with a dropper)
Most peeps seem to love this, but I’m not too crazy about it, mostly because of the texture, which feels thick and kind of sticky… I can’t get over it.
It doesn’t absorb well, either, or layer as well as some of the other face serums I’ve tried. So this one gets a pass from me.
How about you? Do you use any glycolics or other acids in your skin care routine? What have you tried?
Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,
Karen
P.S. TGIF!!!! 🙂
I am a huge fan of gycolic acid, but out of these I have only tried the Glow Mud Cleanser which I really love.
Have you tried anything from The Ordinary? I’ve picked up a few things, including Buffet, and love them! I definitely want to try that cleanser. It sounds amazing!
Glow Tonic is great! I also use Glow Peel Pads (which has 20% glycolic acid) 2x a week in the evening. I will have to try the Glow Mud Cleanser. I’ve been researching about skincare too lately and trying out products gradually. I plan to try The Ordinary next with the Buffet serum and Rosehip oil…and their serum foundation whenever they restock.
I’ve been loving the Drunk Elephant glycolic night serum for several weeks now, and my skin has been looking so much better! It has 12% AHA/BHA along with some other good ingredients to sooth the skin. Kind of pricey but so worth it for me. I couple it with the C-firm day serum. My skin is very finicky but these two have been getting nothing but love from me.
Hi Melissa,
I use Drunk Elephant’s Vitamin C day serum and love it. I’m definitely going to try Framboos next!
Have you used the Marula Oil? I’m so curious about it!
TGIF! Now I’ll have to check all my skin care to see if there are any with glycolic acid in them. I don’t think so, though. I use a lot of salicylic for keeping ye olde blackheads at bay. Just drugstore stuff, but it’s been working. I’ve really liked Dr. Brandt’s PoreDermabrasion (and I must say that I’m not usually a Dr. B fan). It’s sort of sad to be this age and concerned with both acne/pores AND anti-aging. I wish someone would have told me about this when I was a teen. 🙂
Hey Kim,
I like salicylic. I’ve used them before and had good results, but I figure I should be trying out more aggressive acids.
What drugstore stuff have you been using and liking?
I’m glad you said that because you know I have a few years and MANY wrinkles on you. If you’re hitting the harder stuff, I REALLY need to check it out, too!
For the drugstore products, I use a Neutrogena “lotion” in my t-zone that has 2% salicylic (8 hour Rapid Clear, I think) and a CeraVe SA for all over facial lotion that also contains salicylic. I’ve been really liking my Konjac Sponge, too. I think it does a really good job cleaning and exfoliating. I use a Clarisonic in the AM and the sponge in the PM.
Hi Karen! Yeah, TGIF! Thanks for the review I didn’t know that you should use different strengths of glycolic acid. I use glycolics as part of my regimen and it always has been difficult to find a good balance though because my skin is sensitive. I occasionally use Olay’s ProX Anti-Aging Nightly Purifying Micro-Peel (now discontinued) and sometimes the Drunk Elephant Framboos product. I’ll have to check out this Pixie product. I don’t mind the stickiness, as long as it’s not as strong as Drunk Elephant’s product. (It’s nice that Pixie is cruelty-free too!)
Hi Sakura,
I hear ya! Mine seems to do OK with glycolics (so far) but has a hard time with retinols and retinoids. I used one on Wednesday night and my skin still feels like it needs extra TLC! What do you like to help your skin recover after using products that are kinda strong?
(Ha ha, retinols are even worse!) It’s weird but I apply a little bit of Bayer A&D ointment before bed. It’s found in the baby care aisle. My skin is OK after 1 or two days using this. Surprisingly it does n’ t make my super oily skin breakout.
The PIGM 400 version of Biologique Recherche’s P50 toner is so good. I’ve used Glow Tonic, and like it, but love P50 so much more. It has helped my pigmentation issues immensely. I have sensitive skin, but it doesn’t make my face raw and irritated like some glycolics I’ve used. It’s just good stuff!
My skin haaates glycolic acid 🙁 Makes my skin red and angry. ;_;
Aww, bummer! There are other acids out there. Have you ever tried salicylic?
I do salicylic acid sometimes, but not too often or it gets drying. I’ve been into enzyme exfoliants lately, or gentle physical exfoliation.
Caroline is my bff too!! ? I like the Pixi tonic, but you HAVE to try the Biologique one. It’s so much better. There’s a gentler version for sensitive skin.
I’ve purchased, but haven’t tried yet, the Ordinary lactic acid, which is rumored to be very similar to the $90 Drunk Elephant acid. It’s a red gel like consistency fluid. There’s a few YouTubers who swear by it.
In my mind she and I are texting about cats and eyeshadow and serums (of course). LOL! I hope she never finds out that I’m low-key stalking her because she might think I’m a freak!!!
Which Biologique one do you use? The 1970?
Yes, I purchased the original version. It’s pricey, but I think you’ll like it. Try the travel size bottle just to see if you like it.
Caroline is one smart gal! I’ve tried a few of her recommendations & my skin has improved. I’ve also tried Alpha H liquid gold which is also good.
I have rosacea. My skin hates glycolics. Just an angry, red, bumpy mess when I use it. Pixi Glow Tonic aggravated my rosacea and made it much worse.
I’ve heard lactic and mandelic acids are good for people with sensitive or reactive skin, it’s just hard to find formulations with them that don’t also include glycolic.
I’m not sure where I’ve heard it, because I’ve never actually seen a price, but I’ve heard that Biologique Recherche P50 is rather expensive.
There’s an online store here in the US that sells them called Rescue Spa. I found it through a YouTuber, Stephanie Nicole.
I remember you mentioning that you have rosacea. My mom-in-law also has it and has had a hard time finding skin care products, too.
I just starting using Cosrx AHA 7 (7% glycolic) Whitehead Power Liquid and really love it. I used a 10% glycolic a couple of years ago and it was too strong for me then. I’m starting at a lower concentration now and am going to work my way up very slowly. After this, there is a Mizon product at 8%, and then I’ll try a 10% one again if that goes well.
Hey Karen!! I use Cane + Austin 30% Miracle Pads. Super expensive but I love them!! Really help to make my skin smoother. It’s super fun being almost 40 and still getting zits (good times!) and these pads really help with that. One of my all time favorite products that I always come back to.
Glow Tonic totally saved my skin, bar none. It really helped with acne scarring and is the most affordable option I’ve found! I order the large bottle from Pixi’s website, it’s a much better deal if you like the product. Although since I moved to Reno I had to start using it less because the climate is so dang dry.
I’m with you on the overnight serum, I don’t like the texture either and I feel like I saw better results using the tonic regularly. Thanks for the review of the mud cleanser, I’ve been on the fence about it and guess I need to finally try it! 🙂
I love TULA Probiotic Skin Care Pro-Glycolic 10% Resurfacing Gel! It’s so easy to use and is light as water!