Karen

Retinoids, rentinol, Retin-A, Renova — you’ve probably heard of them before. They’re members of the growing family of anti-aging products on the market. Their names are similar (and part of that is smart marketing), but have you ever wondered how each one works?

The skinny

All of the above products fall under the umbrella of “vitamin A derivatives.”

The gentlest member of this family is retinol, a vitamin-A derivative commonly found in over-the-counter skin care products like Philosophy’s Help Me Retinol Night Treatment and Neutrogena’s Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream.

Tretinoin, a retinoid, is retinol’s far stronger, souped-up cousin. It’s available by prescription only. Tretinoin creams like Retin-A and Renova are also referred to as topical retinoids. They’re frequently prescribed to treat acne.

While both Renova and Retin-A contain the same active ingredient, tretinoin, Renova is generally considered the more moisturizing of the two.

Why the fuss?

Healthy, youthful skin is smooth and resilient, supported by collagen and elastin. Skin loses its elasticity and strength as age and environmental damage (sun damage, chemical burns, etc.) occur, and the results are fine lines and wrinkles.

Vitamin-A derivatives have a molecular structure small enough to penetrate skin’s lower levels, where they strengthen and replenish collagen and elastin. Clinical research going back 20 years confirms the anti-aging properties of retinoids like Retin-A and Renova. They’ve been proven to smooth skin, unclog pores, regenerate collagen and may even prevent some types of skin cancer.

(Side note: Your girl *loves* scientific data. I was a biology major in college!)

While not as potent as retinoids, retinols still pack some anti-aging punch. Studies have shown their ability to moisturize, smooth, restore skin tone and color, and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Things to think about when using retinoids or retinols

At night – If you plan to use them at night, apply product after cleansing but prior to moisturizing.

In the morning – If you plan to use them in the morning, add a broad spectrum sunscreen to your regimen because retinoids increase skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.

Things to avoid

1. Using too much product. Retinoids, in particular, are capable of burning skin if overused.
2. Using them in conjunction with products containing alpha hydroxy acids or bezoyl peroxide, either of which can reduce the effectiveness of retinoids and cause excessive drying.
3. Over-zealous waxing or exfoliation, which may irritate skin treated with retinoids.

Mark down the date in which you open a tube or jar of any vitamin-A product because they all lose potency over time.

My retinol experiment with Philosophy’s Help Me

I’ve been wanting to get on the vitamin-A train for a while now, but I didn’t want to jump right into the oh-so-potent retinoids.

Philosophy’s Help Me, when used at night, is supposed to minimize the appearance of fine lines and reduce discoloration and surface roughness. It also claims to keep pores clear. Retinol (not retinoid) in the product is encapsulated in a time-release technology Philosophy calls Microsponge, which stabilizes the retinol in the cream, releasing it gradually throughout the night.

For three weeks I used Philosophy’s Help Me Retinol Night Treatment ($45), alternating it with a benzoyl peroxide product every other night.

Here’s what I did on retinol nights:

1. Washed my face wish a gentle cleanser — Philosophy’s Purity Made Simple.
2. Used a small, pea-sized amount of Help Me on my face and neck.
3. Waited a few minutes before applying a layer of moisturizer.

And on benzoyl peroxide nights:

1. Washed my face with Purity Made Simple.
2. Swiped Clinique’s Mild Clarifying toner (contains salicylic acid, a betahydroxy acid) on my face and neck.
3. Waited a few minutes before applying a small amount of DDF’s Benzoyl Peroxide Gel 5% with Tea Tree Oil.
4. After letting the gel dry, I applied moisturizer.

Did this bad boy work?

The combo made my skin really clear, and I could actually see a tiny difference in the visibility of the expression lines on my forehead. I swear they seemed smoother and less visible. Also, the retinol didn’t worsen my naturally dry skin (always a good thing). I was also hoping the product would decrease the intensity of some of my hyperpigmenation spots, but I didn’t really see an improvement in that area (drat!).

I think that as an anti-aging product, Help Me works, but the effect is subtle. I am now convinced that retinoid/retinol products are the way to go when it comes to affordable anti-aging treatments, so after I finish this tube I’m going to visit the dermatologist to check out Renova (a retinoid).

Have any of you used Renova or Retin-A? What did you think of it?

Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,

Karen

Product: Shu Uemura Phyto-Black Lift, anti-aging skin care collection
Use: A three-step anti-aging system to firm skin, smooth fine lines and moisturize
Cost: If you’re looking for a luxurious high-end skin care system, Phyto Black Lift’s got you covered. Budget friendly, it’s not, but in this case you get what you pay for.
Makeup and Beauty Blog Rating: B

It’s easy to fall in love with all three products in Shu Uemura’s Phyto-Black Lift anti-aging skin care system. With sleek black packaging, a light floral scent and smooth textures, the products are a skin care junkie’s luxury dream come true.

All three products in the collection are plant-based, with exotic sounding ingredients like lychee extract and Depsea water. Black Tea Ferment, a sweet tea believed by the Japanese to have mystical anti-aging properties, is the line’s star ingredient.

Each product in the collection performs a different step in Shu Uemura’s anti-aging regimen.

Step 1: Prepare with Radiance Boosting Lotion, $45

I believe exfoliating toners do help to clear my skin, but they’re often too drying for long-term use. Radiance Boosting Lotion, with fruit extracts and alpha hydroxy acids, exfoliates without leaving my skin feeling tight and dry. And after two weeks of testing, my skin seems clearer and less pimply. This is my favorite product from the collection.

Step 2: Treat with Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence, $95

You may have noticed that serums are a big trend in skin care lately. Serums are either thick liquids or light lotions designed to target specific skin care issues. Typically, they’re applied before moisturizers.

Lifting Anti-Wrinkle Essence serum contains an ingredient Shu Uemura calls micro-silica, which they claim fills in wrinkles to smooth skin and create a lifting effect.

The texture is like a hybrid between a light lotion and a foundation primer. After I smooth it on my face and neck, my skin does feel smoother, but I think that may be at least partly due to Dimethicone, an ingredient commonly used in skin and hair. I’m in my early-thirties, so I don’t have a lot of wrinkles yet and can’t really tell if my skin is being lifted or tightened when I apply the product. I like this serum, but I’m not 100% convinced of the degree of its impact.

Step 3: Moisturize with Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream, $125

Ohhhh, yummy. My acne-prone, dry skin super loves this stuff. Packed with “Nutra-lipids,” a patented combination of natural oils that protect and rejuvenate skin, my face feels instantly hydrated after using this cream. I can see an immediate change from rough to smooth skin after one application. The jar I have is the dry skin mixture; if you have oily skin you’ll want the lighter lotion, called Smoothing Anti-Wrinkle Emulsion.

This cream hydrates like nobody’s business, and when I use it on my face, my skin feels drenched in moisture. The second thing I like about it is the texture. Moisturizers that target dry skin are often thick and greasy, but Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream feels fluffy and light and doesn’t leave a greasy residue. I like that I can use it on my neck and not feel sticky.

Yes, at $125 it’s rather expensive, but if you’re plagued by dry skin and gravitate to high end brands, then I’d highly recommend giving Shu’s Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream a try.

The final word

In general, I’m skeptical when it comes to anti-aging products, especially those that don’t contain clinically proven active ingredients like retinol or alpha hydroxy acids. Some compounds have lots of long-term scientific studies backing their anti-wrinkle claims. Shu’s Phyto-Black Lift collection doesn’t make those claims.

While I can’t conclusively say that this skin care system is effective when it comes to treating and preventing wrinkles, I can say with confidence that the products in steps one and three, Radiance Boosting Lotion Toner and the Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream, do help with my big skin issues, pimples and dry skin.

If you’re interested in plant-based products and willing to spend top dollar for skin care, you should give the toner and cream a try.

I’ll be doing a ton of product reviews this week, including more stuff from Shu (my new makeup love), so please check back later today for more.

How’s your Monday going so far? I’m still a little sick but on the road to recovery, yay!

Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,

Karen