Dude, I had a rollickin’ good time last Friday night. I watched an episode of Law & Order: SVU, ate a massive bowl of Rainier cherries and, totally not kidding, stayed up until 1 (which is late for me) reading about skin care and taking notes, because I have officially decided that — drum roll, please — this will be the Summer of Skin Care for moi.
Ahhhh!
How serious are you about your skin care?
Some people are real-deal serious about it, and I wanna get serious about it, too, even though I’ve mostly ignored my skin for the past two years, because when I got pregnant, I stripped my skin care routine down to the bare bones. I just didn’t have it in me to think hard about ingredients and multi-step processes. I still did cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen and my acne medication, but that was it.
Pregnancy and having a baby wasn’t just a nine-month thing. I was talking to someone recently about mentally “bouncing back” and, gosh, it’s taken me a really long time. People told me that it would, but I didn’t really get it until it was happening to me. Connor is going to be 15 months old in a couple weeks, and I only now feel like I have the mental breathing room contemplate something like skin care again.
I’m also turning 42 next month, which is another reason skin care is on my mind. I’ve definitely noticed more sun spots, and my fine lines are getting…finer.
Anyway, I read a bunch of interesting skin care articles the other night (linked them down below in case you’re interested) and learned some fascinating things!
Order is important
The main skin care lesson I came away with after my jaunt through the Interwebs was that if you’re going to layer a bunch of products, the order with which you apply them is REALLY important, especially if you’re using active ingredients and compounds that can potentially conflict with the others.
I wish I knew the intricate science behind it, because I was deep in the chemistry trenches in college, and I think it would be fun to break it all down on a molecular level.
But the gist of it is this: some active ingredients deactivate others, so you can’t just layer things on your face willy-nilly…although, to be honest, that’s what I’ve been doing lately.
I haven’t been putting much thought into it (I want to start putting in more), but I figured that doing something was better than nothing. As it turns out, though, maybe it wasn’t, because I’ve been using this Drunk Elephant Vitamin C serum, and I think I’ve been using it wrong this entire time. I’ve been layering it on top of a glycolic toner in the morning and, apparently, these two things don’t play together well.
Being aware of the active ingredients in your skin care and the order in which you apply and layer them is a big deal! I’m hoping that figuring out the best order to apply the products I’m using and which ones work well together will improve my skin care game.
Alpha and beta hydroxys
I did some reading on the difference between alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, and the different types, like glycolic lactic acid and salicylic acid.
I think I’m going to start adding glycolic acids into the mix because they’re supposed to be great for aging skin.
Chemical and physical sun screens
I also researched sun screens because I needed a refresher on the difference between chemical and physical ones (this article helped a lot).
Five-second summary: chemical sunscreens absorb and scatter the sun’s rays, and physical sunscreens reflect them.
The next day I went Sephora and grabbed Drunk Elephant Umbra Tinte Physical Daily Defense Protection SPF30 with 20% zinc oxide, a physical sun screen.
I just really want to get to the point where I feel like every product and step in my skin care routine serves a legit purpose.
As for makeup, I still love wearing it, but as I get older, I prefer the way my skin looks when I wear less, especially less foundation, concealer and powder. I just can’t keep piling it on anymore. Like, I can’t get away with full-coverage foundation the way that I used to. And three or four years ago, I loved that sh*t! Now I feel like it ages me.
I’m trying to get away with the least amount of face makeup possible, and I hope that stepping up my skin care game will help me do that.
I haven’t written much about skin care on MBB because makeup has always been more interesting to me…but maybe The Summer of Skin Care will change that.
How do you look at skin care? Is it on your radar screen? Is it something you’ve been aware of for a long time, or was it something you got into when you reached a certain point in your life?
Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,
Karen
Hi, Karen:
Connor Claire is so beautiful and OLD! ? Time has really flow !
I was born of the Bain de Soleil generation, so I used SPF 2 or 4 in high school, longing for that Saint Tropez tan. What a crock of hooey! Now I have sun spots. I use prescription creams in an attempt to minimize them because I am Filipino and laser may or may not work because of hyperpigmentation.
Luckily I have a very conservative, smart and awesome dermatologist. When I told her my goal is to not wear makeup or wear the least amount of makeup possible she said. “Why? Makeup is another barrier against the sun and pollutants!”
Just wanted to throw that out there. Her skin is flawless. I thought it was her skin care but I guess it’s also her makeup. Ergo, I will always be wearing makeup unless I’m inside for the whole day.
Food for thought.
Have a great day!
???
I take my skincare very, very seriously. It is the reason I got into blogging first hand and with my medical background and access to dermatological research I spend a good deal of my waking hours reading up or writing about ingredients and routines.
Problem with the inter webs is that anyone can write anything, and many people out there writing about skincare seriously have not that much knowledge. Have you checked out Michelle from LabMuffin? She is amazing, old enough to be relatable and really knows her stuff.
As for not using Vitamin C and AHAs together that is a common myth, but there is absolutely no scientific background that proves that. I have combined both without any issues and they will not turn each other ineffective.
I’ve seen people combine vitamin C with hydroxy acids, too, and it’s probably fine, but I think whether or not you should do it depends on whom you are speaking with.
From Allure:
From Byrdie:
I guess it really depends on your source of wisdom:
From the Indian Journal of Dermatology:
“A combination of acids with 15% Vit. C and 1% Vit. E can increase the efficacy of Vit. C eight-fold.[3] It was noted that this triple combination was very useful for the reduction of acute and chronic photodamage, and could be used for prevention of skin cancer in the future.[3] 3. Farris PK. Cosmetical Vitamins: Vitamin C. In: Draelos ZD, Dover JS, Alam M, editors. Cosmeceuticals. Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology. 2nd ed. New York: Saunders Elsevier; 2009. pp. 51–6.”
But everyone should of course do what feels best for them. I prefer to stick to medical publications for my research, but I understand that this is not possible for people that have no access to medical databases.
That’s great that you have access to them, and yes, medical publications are a source, but you also have to consider the design of the studies you’re citing. How much data they have, who were the subjects, when the research happened, that kind of thing.
One could spend all day in the internet black hole citing sources on all sides and never really get anywhere. LOL Ultimately it’s what works for you.
I couldn’t agree more, the quality of the data is very important and the internet is not the most reliable source of information.
We all need to find a way that works for us and someone who’s opinion we trust.
I am so, so into skincare. My mom started me with proper skincare when I was in middle school. Now, I’m 41. My skin has always been very dry, dehydrated, sensitive, and very reactive. About 2.5 years ago I started doing whatever Caroline Hirons said to do. My skin is so much better, which I think is due to (1) proper exfoliation (2) applying products in the correct order, as you mentioned (3) having the knowledge, now, to use the actives my skin needs. I get compliments and sometimes people ask me what I use on my face. To me, that feels like a win.
I get that some people would want to branch out or sort things for themselves rather than listen to one person, but I don’t have the mental energy to do that. I have too many plates in the air! Loads of respect to people who design their own regimens, however, I am all Hirons, all the time!
One more thing: quick shout-out to The Ordinary! If I was a beauty blogger, it’d be hard to resist all the beautiful skincare, but for those of us on a budget who need good, solid, affordable products, theirs are a gift. I absolutely love the 23% Vitamin C suspension and never want to be without it. The tingle is no fooling around, and, yes, your skin will smell metallic when it’s on, but whoa, lady–seriously effective!
Caroline Hirons is THE skincare guru!
I am currently skin care OBSESSED! Like I’m looking at something everyday it seems lol. I’ve always had some sort of routine. But in the last couple of years or so it has come to the forefront.
I’m a skincare maniac. The Raw Sauce is one of my most hated products, it’s got alcohol in it and it’s actually very drying to the skin. You should try lactic acid. Also, look into The Ordinary. K beauty is also where it’s at for hydration. You need to get your hands on some toners and essences. You’ll notice a big difference in a few weeks. Let me know if you need any recommendations or check my blog. I’ve been slacking though 😛
Hey Karen! Thanks for the tip on chemical vs. physical sunscreens! I was looking for something like that. I still love my full coverage foundation but am really really coming around to lightening up a bit on it. They say black/brown/yellow don’t crack, but I’m a fan of making sure of it! I started heavy in Kbeauty but have scaled back quite a bit with the layering as I am learning more about what my skin likes and hates. Good luck on your skincare journey!
You’re welcome! Ask for a sample when you’re at Sephora. I do that all the time and the SAs hook me up. 🙂
Hi Karen!
I am a huge skincare nerd. Always have been since I was in my teens because I suffered from acne. I guess it was born out of necessity.
My skin has been experiencing a barrier problem the past few years (due to overenthusiastic exfoliation and wrong advice from an inexperienced esthetician ) so it’s still healing from that. I go for medi-facials, with a fantastic esthetician now, every month and it’s been healing.
If you’re interested in the chemistry behind products or skin, I highly recommend Leslie Baumann’s book “The Skin Type Solution”. It is the most comprehensive skin typing system I’ve ever found. She breaks it down to 16 different skin types and dedicates a section of the book to each one including products she recommends and how and when to layer them properly, diet advice for each skin type, procedures to look into etc. It has helped me understand my own skin so much better.
Good luck on your skin care journey 🙂
I’ve been diligent about my skincare since I was about 14 because I started getting acne around then and started using retinols to treat them. Thus, I’ve been wearing at least SPF 30 on my face and body for at least 19 years (I’m ghostly pale now). But skincare wasn’t the same back then as it is now, and your derm’s treatment plan makes a huge difference, so I really only started having exceptionally clear skin recently and haven’t had to wear makeup at all. I don’t have a single wrinkle and my derm says my skin tone is really good. Time and time again I ask my derm about the newest and greatest cream, but she keeps telling me to stick to retin-a, Vitamin C, and sunblock. The rest can help and are great to incorporate into my regimen, but those are the heavy hitters. I doget TCA peels once a month, though, to shed what lingering dark marks I may have. That really helps!
I’m hoping I will age gracefully like my mom because she still looks like she’s in her 40s despite being 61.
Hi Karen! I’m so looking forward to reading more about your foray into skincare. I myself started about five years ago when I had some super gross skin problems due to untreated hypothryoidism. From there, I’ve never looked back. I never had acne or anything so I wasn’t super into it before, but my skin FEELS better and looks better than it ever has.
If you’re interested, a great expert to check out is Caroline Hirons. She is the goddess of skincare, if you ask me. Her knowledge helped me fix my skin, and she provides a lot of information on the skin and body, in addition to actually discussing product, which I find so useful. Her recommended treatment order is basically:
Cleanse
Tone/possibly acid toner
Eye product
Serum(s)
Oil
Moisturizer
Sunscreen (if it’s AM)
Also… will you be reviewing the Drunk Elephant physical sunscreen at all? It’s new, but no one else has really talked about it at all yet. I’d love to hear your thoughts 🙂
I’m really into skincare, but I’ve pared my routine back a bit from using multiple serums, multiple moisturizers, etc. because my skin does better with simpler a lot of the time. I’m prone to redness, irritation, dehydration, and fungal acne, and my skin is pretty sensitive.
I’ve got my skin looking pretty good right now, aside from a few spots I picked at. I’m a terrible skin picker which causes issues. I’m lucky that I’ve worn sunscreen regularly since I was a young teenager (redhead, fair skin, burn easily), and have always washed my face. However, I’ve gotten several bad sunburns through the years. I think I look about my age.
I’m about to geek out about your links and research. I don’t know why, but reading about skin care makes me so happy. So excited to read more about your skin care adventures!
I was basically a dermatologist’s nightmare most of my life– I did literally nothing to my face… (except wash it, obv… but not always when I should– slept in makeup? check!) like, I wore zero sunscreen unless I was at the beach, moisturizer was a dirty word because I just assumed I’d feel slimy, and yet somehow I never really had breakouts or other teenagery issues.
Now, tho, I’m much more prone to breaking out a bit around my mouth, which I haven’t entirely found a solution for, but a year ago i started really trying to take care of my face since I’m getting older, and the whole drunk elephant line is AMAZING. I love that lala creme- it’s so thick but actually absorbs! and their serums are great, too.
I’m not a big fan of the original umbra spf, but I may give the tinte a try. I don’t usually care for the formula of physical sunscreens, tho, they feel really heavy to me. I’ve been using shiseido for awhile, (SO light– but so much alcohol in the ingredients which is no bueno!) but I am DYING to try the new one by glossier… it’s like a gel! how weird is that?
p.s. do you like a face oil?? i’ve tried so many times and I always feel like it just sits there!! i think i’m doing it wrong….
Oh, this is exciting. I’m much more interested in skincare than makeup (because you know I’m a makeup bore) and can’t wait to see all the fun things you try! The one thing I will say I’ve learned about skin care is that everyone is different and just because someone has a miracle product that shrinks their pores to nothing doesn’t mean it will work for me. 🙂 Still, I’m really looking forward to your skincare reviews! I’m always up for trying something new.
I’ve had severe acne (face, back, chest, thighs — ya, it was severe) for a great deal of my life and still get occasional breakouts as an adult so skincare has been something I’ve “been into” out of necessity. I’ve gone through quite a bit in figuring out what my skin likes in relation to where I am. I used to live in a very humid climate and sunscreen was it for me outside of acne medication. Then I moved more central and all of a sudden I’m using moisturizer, natural exfoliators, serum, whatever. Discovering thin layers with K-beauty has really helped out a lot along with natural products (I love the Arcona line). I’m also using my own blend of face oil along with Osmotics peptide products and its not broken me out. I’ve learned to adapt depending on stress, diet, etc. As for makeup- I’ve never been a heavy foundation wearer (serum foundation is my jam as I mix it with my sunscreen) and I wear just about everything else.
Hi Karen! Well, I’m turning 38 next month. I feel like skincare is a strange game, especially because I feel like I don’t really know what works and not (except for a feeling on the skin). Plus my skin kept getting haywired due to the season changes, the water in Berlin (they said it made everyone’s skin dryer… IDK). What I know though, a night out drinking means I’ve dry patches the next day :P.
I’m trying to be good with nightly products now, serums and retinol, and occasionally a mask. Btw: I love that Caudalie Radiance Serum!
Caroline Hirons is the skin care goddess. She is a wealth of knowledge.
This sounds good but my skin has been super sensitive lately! If I use an anti-aging serum it gets too dry and I used a toner the other night and my face turned red for days and developed little pimples, not sure if I have rosacea or what. So I just stick to Wal-marts Equate face wash and lotion which are generics for Clinique’s. Seems to work.
Karen, if you still have some acne-ish issues, try Jan Marini’s Bioclear. You can get it in a cream or serum. It has alpha and beta hydroxy acids. I have a post-Accutane face–some oil and some light zit issues. My face LOVES exfoliation, so if I use something with a BHA twice a day (tried once a day– not good), and flip between a retinol and my Foreo, my face looks really nice. Any blemish makes me paranoid, since I have super fair skin and they take forever to fade.
And yes, definitely throw in some skincare on the blog! I’m just a few years younger than you, and I would be interested to see what works well on your skin.
I’m quite particular about my skin care, but I don’t have a huge skin care regimen because I often think that too many products create anxiety; we start stressing about getting our skin care regimen done over actually having fun.
I have, for my face the following: a few masks (ah, masks), Clinique face wash, eye/face makeup remover (from LaRoche-Posay, not thrilled with it. I like Clinique better), argan oil, Clinique all about eyes, Clinique moisture surge for the face (for winter or more dry days), Clinique sunscreen and Differin gel. THAT’S IT! My grams always said wrinkles meant you lived life and considering I’m allergic to many retinols, I have to be pretty careful with them!
So Karen, I just had to tell you that my own list for planning out my skin care routine was written in my iPhone notes app, very similarly to yours… they looked almost identical!
I, too, look forward to reading more about what you find this summer, for your skin:)
When I was about to comment I was going to tell about a conversation Anne and me were having about sunscreens. She sent me a video from Caroline Hirons with Doctor Marko Lens (yep the creator of Zelens) and they make a good insight about what you should use and I think the best part it’s when Dr Lens says that you should use the sunscreen that you are going to use everyday and you’ll reapply.
Also he and Anne say you should avoid nano physical sunscreens and to stop demonizing chemicals sunscreens; so I prefer using a mix of both types (non- nano physical ones obviously). And also I think it’s good to keep in mind zinc oxide can pollute oceans.
Finally, yes I consider myself a skincare junkie but I need to keep in a budget so I’m always looking for the good and cheap stuff.
In order to avoid being hypocrite I must accept I use sunscreens with zinc oxide; but I think we should also talk about the bad stuff not only the good parts.
I have been reading your blog for years and I’m so excited your stepping into skin care. I’m just a couple years younger than you but have a slew of skin issues that have cropped up over the last few years. Melasma, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, acne ((sigh)) My 30’s have not been good to me!! I’m still figuring out my routine and what products work best for me. Love everything I have tried from Drunk Elephant so far. Lala is amazing and I just ordered the same spf. Would love to hear your thoughts on it? I also second checking out Caroline Hirons. She’s an esthetician in the UK and has lots of great product recommendations but also takes the time to explain why they work and when you should use them. I really, really hope you still keep playing with makeup. You have an amazing way of taking a young, trendy look or style and making it “age appropriate”. Ugh, I feel so old saying that. Anyhoo, love you, adore Tabs and can’t wait to watch Connor Claire grow up to be a beautiful young woman 🙂
I’ve been obsessed with skincare since reading Paula Begoun’s beauty bible, which was really helpful.
I’ve always been really particular about skin care and sunscreen. I’m what my brother calls “cave dweller white” and my husband says I’m so pale I glow. I don’t tan, I burn after a very short amount of time in the sun.
A few years ago I started to notice fine lines so I went to my dermatologist and started using prescription retinol. My dermatologist told me the key is to prevent wrinkles, it’s very difficult once they’re established. And also, layers of sunscreen. The sunscreen in foundation is gone by lunchtime, so it’s always a good idea to layer it. There are so many great sunscreens now that aren’t greasy at all. And I’m the dork with the big floppy hat, but I figure avoiding direct sun works better than any sunscreen.
As I’ve gotten older I’ve gotten more and more aware of putting skin care first. Makeup won’t do anything if you don’t have a good canvas to put it on.
I am SHOCKED! Completely SHOCKED that you are about to be 42! What? You look so amazing and so young! I would have thought you were in your 30’s for sure!
Well I guess I look younger than I actually am too. I will be 36 this summer. Must be our asian genes keeping us looking fresh!
When I turned 30, I became serious about my skin care. Like I needed serums and eye creams and to be using moisturizers for day and night. And not use acne cleansers! My esthetician said I was drying my skin out. Oops!
I have a routine and products I like now, but I am always on the lookout for new products because I love trying stuff out. I just re-purchased minis of Drunk Elephant and am liking that line.
There are really important tips in this post like what NOT to mix! I just bought The Ordinary Retinol. Let me tell you, I don’t know much about it! I better do my research before I slather it all over my face! In fact I tried a sample packet of an 10% AHA. My face broke out in bumps! It was either too intense or I mixed it with something I shouldn’t have. Noted.
I am bookmarking this to re-read! I need to know these things!
Ah, man. I feel like skincare can be so confusing, because of so much quackery out there, and so many claims which are presented online as ‘holy truths’. Finding it really frustrating and difficult to find advice online which I can really believe in. Take alcohol for instance – I initially avoided pretty much anything that included it, to then find out that wait! actually in a “well-formulated” product, alcohol is very useful to help the so-called “active” ingredients penetrate the skin more easily. Therefore, alcohol = good in this case. So now this has become a whole dilemma for me and don’t really know how to reach a compromise. I also don’t like to do too much trial-n-error on my skin. Maybe I’ll just go for stuff with alcohol lower in the ingredient list, rather than avoid it completely. :/
So far , the only things that I know for sure are that retinoids are pretty much miracle-workers for acne (taken orally, but also topically), that oils shouldn’t be demonized for acne-sufferers, since it all depends on the oil and probably the type of acne, and that I should probably steer away from silicones and let my skin breathe. Right now, pretty much all else seems to be a minefield…!
So excited for you Karen! For me, out of all the effective skincare I’ve tried, using a good sunscreen daily is the key to maintaining all of them benefits you’ve been getting already. Also, I learned from reading K-Popstars’ interviews, that they wear sunscreen indoors to shield the skin from any rays from the smartphones, PCs, indoor lighting etc. Seemed wierd but I had sunblock to spare. I’ve been following their advice and surprisingly, it has worked really well for me. One time, at yoga, a classmate came up to me and complemented my skin. She said it was like a ‘pearl’. I wasn’t wearing a stitch of makeup and I got complemented after a sweat session. That’s good, right? 🙂
May your skincare journey be fun and effective and may your skin bloom and glow! Enjoy!
Hi Karen,
I am definitely a certified skin care junkie – I got my esthetician’s license just for fun! Like you, I had to take a break from a serious skin care routine when I was trying to get pregnant, while I was pregnant and then for another year or so while nursing. After that, I was so tired, it took about another year before I got back into it. Adding back in retinols have made such a great difference in my skin! Like, you I also look better with less foundations on my skin, so I try to keep it light with a BB or CC cream. Can’t wait to follow your summer of skincare!
Hi, Karen- I enjoy reading your blog and your sense of humor! I am like you in that I can’t do the full coverage foundations anymore, either…and powder has become a no-no, also. I really like Paula Begoun’s Beautypedia website for good info and cosmetic/skincare product reviews and I use several of her Paula’s Choice products in my daily skincare routine. The foundation that’s working best for me now is IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC+ Color Correcting Full Coverage Cream- what a name!! It’s got SPF 50 physical sunscreen, comes in a handy tube- I put it on with a Beautyblender and have been really pleased with the look and wear so far.
I never know what to do with chemical sunscreen. It’s supposed to go on clean bare skin so it can bind on a cellular level. But it seems weird putting serum on after a sunscreen. Also, if I’m putting my face onat 7am by the time the sun is harsh 11:00-3:00, surely it’s all gone by then anyway. I’ve tried those sunscreens you can spray on over makeup during the day but then I feel like a disgusting sticky mess.
When I started getting serious a few years ago, I learned SO MUCH from Caroline Hirons’ blog. I had my routine down, then we moved to Reno which is a higher elevation and so much drier. We’ve been here over a year and I’m still figuring it out again! One thing I don’t do without is glycolic to help with acne scarring, I just do it a couple days a week now to help with scarring. I like Pixi’s Glow Tonic, it’s the best price for that percentage!
My top skin tip is Dr Hauschka Rose Day cream and the rose body moisturiser. I started on it a few years ago because I have dry, sensitive skin that is prone to eczema and now I would not be without these products if I had to go without food to afford them!