Karen

Written by Sam

Freelance makeup artist and blogger Sam offers some concealing and contouring tips in today’s guest post.

Think of your face as a grid.

Draw an imaginary line vertically down through the center of your nose, and a horizontal line going across the tip of said nose. The more something interacts with these lines, the more noticeable it is. Following this logic, a small pimple on the very center of the nose is going to attract more attention than a larger one near the jawline, and the same concept applies to makeup.

A grid can help us figure out where to focus our efforts. Should we spend more product and effort covering up that blemish near our cheekbone (bingo!), or that one near our hairline? Or should we aim that concealer brush at that red mark on the center of our chin, or the port-wine stain near our earlobe?

But maybe concealing isn’t your problem. Maybe you want to enhance your bone structure instead.

If you have a rounder face (ain’t you a cutie?), apply a darker contour shade from the horizontal gridline halfway up to the vertical line, and about a third of the way from the lower end of the vertical line to a third of the way to the horizontal, keeping along the border of your face.

If your face could be described as triangular (a description I hate, but, alas, the makeup world has yet to come up with a better term for it), do the same as you would for a rounder face, except swap in a highlight shade for the area below the horizontal gridline, or forego this step altogether.

For those with a square or rectangular face (which just means your forehead may be a bit wider and your jaw is a bit more pronounced than someone with an oval face), buff a contour shade midway between the endpoints of the two lines (or the four corners of your face), rounding the edges.

And if you have an oval face…well, lay down those brushes. An oval shape is generally considered the easiest to apply makeup to, which is why the steps above aim to shape the other types more towards this goal.

Cheek color should never fall below your imaginary horizontal line, no matter what (this was an old film and theatre technique used to age actors or make them appear ill).

Now, draw an imaginary vertical line through the center of your pupil; blush should never be applied further in than this line.

How about the eyes?

The space between your eyebrows should be approximately the width of one of your eyes. To help us find where our brows should end, take any straight object (pencil, brush, etc.; really, any old thing will do), and draw an imaginary line from the corner of the nostril on the same side through the outside corner of that eye. End your brow just inside this spot.
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Written by Sam

Freelance makeup artist and blogger Sam shares five tips to adjust your beauty routine to winter’s chilly weather.

As the weather gets colder and that rosy glow pops into your cheeks every time you step outdoors, your beauty routine needs to follow suit. This winter has its own set of trends, as well as some general guidelines to help you switch from your fall face to a chillier complexion.

1. Layering

And not just your sweaters. In winter, it really helps to layer your skincare and makeup products to protect your skin and your hard work. In cold locales, where the weather leeches moisture from your skin, try layering a serum under a heavier lotion to really lock in that moisture.

Don’t forget the shower — Apply these when your skin is still slightly damp from your shower. Along with your epidermis being more porous and absorbent thanks to heat opening your pores, the products will capture and mix with the water still on your skin and dispense this essential moisture as they sink in, ensuring all-day plumpness.

To make sure the bitter winds don’t cause your makeup to flake and flatten, layer your foundation and eyeshadow over a good primer. Then, throw some gloss on top of your lips to keep your lipstick from sucking the moisture out of those luscious lips.

2. Purple

One of the hottest color families this season, you really can’t go wrong with any purple in my opinion. Try a rich, royal purple in the outer-V, taking it about a sixth of the way under the eye; or, opt for a plum-tone satin lip with a hint of clear gloss paired with a neutral eye.

3. Icy Composure

Fittingly, icy shades of blue, white, and silver are de rigeur for Winter 2010. Aim for simplicity with just one or two of these shades dusted lightly over your lids, and finish with a nude lip. Wanna go all the way? Cover your lips with a neutral concealer or a product like MAC Lip Erase, and put a bit of a nude gloss over it for some added dimension. Or, add a bit of drama with a sheer, shimmery berry shadow in the crease. Keep blush sheer and bare, and tap on a silvery highlighter to finish the look.
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